Sustainability in Fashion

As far as sustainability goes, I have heard it said that if you need something, try getting it second hand. I have believed this for a long time now but I have never actually looked into its validity. So that’s what I did this week. 

Question:

What is the environmental impact of buying new clothes as opposed to secondhand?

This is a graph created for ThredUp’s 2023 sustainability report. ThredUp is a second hand online thrift store dedicated to helping the planet through eradicating fast-fashion and creating value for second-hand clothing. This graph above is measuring just what it takes to manufacture the items, not the plants they come from. It takes about 713 total gallons of water to make one new cotton t-shirt and over 1,000 gallons to make a pair of cotton jeans.  

“...Cotton farming used up so much water from the Aral Sea that it dried up after about 50 years.” -Morgan Mcfall-Johnsen

Environmental Degradation:

“Environmental Degradation occurs when natural resources like air, water, and soil are used up, ecosystems are destroyed, and wildlife is wiped out.” - Rebecca Bentley 

The research I did suggests that two of the biggest impacts manufacturers can have are using hazardous chemicals and non-renewable energy. Fossil fuels, specifically coal plants, to power a building or a machine is the worst kind of energy with the biggest contribution to greenhouse gasses. Unfortunately, the fashion industry (specifically fast-fashion) has not escaped this statistic. 

Consumption of water and air pollution is not the only problem with this kind of fashion though. There are multiple sources mentioning the damage of synthetic dyes.

“Textile dyeing is the world’s second-largest polluter of water, since the water leftover from the dyeing process is often dumped into ditches, streams, or rivers.” Morgan Mcfall-Johnsen

“Some 72 toxic chemicals have been identified in water solely from

textile dyeing, 30 of which cannot be removed.” - Rita Kant

“The United Nations names the fashion industry as the second most polluting of all industries, resulting in 8% of all carbon emissions and 20% of all global wastewater.” - Kerrice Bailey, Aman Basu, Sapna Sharma

But buying new isn’t the only problem. Not taking proper care of clothes, specifically synthetic clothing, also contributes to the issue of water pollution.

“500,000 tons of microfibers are released into the ocean each year from washing clothes — the equivalent of 50 billion plastic bottles”- Ellen MacArthur Foundation, 2017)”

Conclusion:

I think fashion is important in my ability to express myself and I think it can be really empowering, especially when done sustainably. The research I have done has allowed me to really appreciate companies who care and are trying to make a difference in the world. It has also helped me to reflect on impulse buying and changing my attitude on what is a need and what is a want.

For me, I decided I will always look to thrifting and buying second hand first before I buy something new. So this leads me to my final question. How can I apply what I have learned to my current lifestyle?

Solutions:

Use Eco-fashion principles:

• Shop second hand first

• Shop Local

• Shop quality

• Mend and repair

• Upcycle or repurpose

Taking care of clothes for longevity:

• Wash in cool water- reduces electricity and leads to less microplastics in the water

• Reduce washer rotation speed(spin cycle)- reduces friction, lessons fiber shedding

• Wash full loads- reduces friction that leads to shedding

• Liquid soap for synthetics- reduces friction

• Don’t use bleach when possible- degrades fabrics

• Don’t use fabric softener- coats with waxy residue>prevents fabric from wicking properly>promotes odor>washings more frequent

• Wash on shorter cycles when possible- reduces friction

• Use washing filters(bags, installed filters, etc.)- captures broken fibers from clothes to keep them from going into water system

Ideas for when you really do just need to get rid of clothes:

• Donate or sell

• Clothing swap parties

• Clothing recycling(only local areas)

• Compost(only natural fibers)

Here are some good certifications to look at when buying new:

GOTS (global organic textile standard):

• 70% organic raw materials

• Prohibiting use of hazardous chemicals during manufacturing

• Resource efficiency (waste reduction and renewable energy in production facilities)

• Fair labor practices

• Traceability

WRAP (worldwide responsible accredited production):

• Fair labor practices

• Facilities must comply with local environmental rules, regulations, and standards

B Corp:

• Uses triple bottom line practices (making social and environmental practices as importance as financial[profits, people, planet])

SA8000:

• Safe and healthy workplaces

• No Child Labor

• No Forced or compulsory labor

• Health and Safety

• No Discrimination

• Healthy working hours

Many local brands that have environmentally conscious practices may not be able to afford to purchase a certification. Just because these may not be listed does not mean your local store doesn’t comply with these standards. A good rule of thumb when searching for sustainable companies is to look at their supply chain. If the place you are looking into has a traceable supply chain, it’s a good bet they aren’t being shady. With that being said, I feel one big purpose in life is to make an honest effort to be better. And for me, buying second hand clothes is a good start.

Anywhos, take care!

Jacqueline Marie

ps. if you needed inspo for good thrift stores, click here